Textile recycling could help bring Europe back into the fashion sourcing scene.
A new project called Telavalue, led by VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland, suggests that increasing textile recycling could bring parts of the textile production process back to Europe.
The project highlights that recycling technology is making progress quickly, but there are still challenges.
These include a lack of rules and difficulties in dealing with the mix of materials in textile waste. However, it also points out that there is potential for a big business with many recycling plants across Europe.
Research Professor Ali Harlin says: “In Europe alone, about 10 billion kilograms of textile waste are thrown away every year. The price of textile fibers per kilogram is between €2 and €3, so this area has a lot of business potential.”
Currently, only 1% of the world’s textiles are recycled into new textiles. Harlin explains that the main issues are the complexity of textile materials and the lack of regulations. He adds: “The EU is a leader in textile recycling rules, but even here, progress has been slow. Strong regulations are needed before we can expect big improvements in recycling rates.”
The EU is working on updating its Waste Framework Directive. This will mean that textile companies will be responsible for organizing the recycling of their products. Harlin believes that once recycling increases, it could bring parts of the textile production chain back to Europe.
Technology is developing quickly in Northern and Western Europe, while manufacturing expertise is mostly in Eastern and Southern Europe. So, a working European textile recycling system needs cooperation across the continent. He explains: “Individual countries are too small to act alone. Europe could see the opening of five to ten chemical recycling plants. To supply one chemical plant with raw materials, we need about 10 mechanical fiber plants.”
In Finland, a group of textile companies and research institutes completed a ten-year project last year.
The project aimed to solve sustainability and waste issues in the textile industry.
The main scientist, Pirjo Heikkilä, explains: “If a textile can’t be repaired or reused, the best option is mechanical fiber recycling. This involves shredding the fabric and yarn into fibers that can be used again in textile production. When the waste is very worn or of low quality, chemical recycling is better. Here, fibers are broken down and rebuilt at the polymer and even monomer level.”
Harlin adds that used textiles can be used to make not only new clothes but also nonwoven fabrics, wind turbine blades, and vehicle sound insulation.
The research project mentions that cheap, fast fashion is a big problem for recycling. It says that low-quality and mixed-textile products are hard to recycle profitably. However, it notes that the workwear sector is in a better position.
Heikkilä says: “Workwear is mainly bought as a service, which means the quality, maintenance, washing, and repair of the clothes are taken care of. Textiles are used for as long as possible, and the business model encourages the use of durable, high-quality materials. When a garment reaches the end of its life, recycling back into textiles is easier because the materials are well known.”
Senior Scientist Eetta Saarimäki explains that not all complex and blended materials can be recycled into new textiles.
However, she says: “Through thermo-mechanical recycling, these materials can be used to make composite products, giving them a second life.”
