The European Union is moving closer to adopting regulations that will make fashion brands responsible for managing the entire life cycle of their products, including textile waste. This legislation would require brands to fund the collection, sorting, and recycling of their products through extended producer responsibility (EPR) programs. The proposed fees would be calculated based on the volume of clothing quickly disposed of in the European market, with a particular focus on fast-fashion and ultra-fast-fashion brands like Shein and Temu.
The EU generates 12.6 million tons of textile waste annually and imported 4 billion packages of ultra-fast-fashion clothing in 2024. This regulation aims to curb the environmental impact of these rapidly disposable garments, ensuring that brands contribute to the effective collection and recycling of their textiles. Ultra-fast-fashion companies, which often rely on direct shipping models, will face unique enforcement challenges under the new provisions.
France had previously attempted to address this issue through its own “anti-fast-fashion” bill, which sought to impose penalties on polluting brands and ban advertising for such companies. However, the legislation stalled in the French Senate. A group of industry professionals and politicians expressed outrage, calling for a revival of the bill to protect French businesses from the negative impacts of cheap imports.
At the same time, the Circular Fashion Federation (CFF) in Brussels raised concerns about loopholes in EU legislation, particularly the exemption of direct imports under 150 euros from customs charges, which companies like Shein and Temu take advantage of. The CFF is advocating for changes to these rules, as well as for increased support for circular textiles and equal taxation on secondhand products.
With textile consumption in Europe expected to double by 2030, the industry faces mounting challenges in waste management. Recycling post-consumer textiles remains difficult, and current recycling efforts mostly focus on industrial waste like manufacturing offcuts. The EU is being called upon to enforce stricter regulations and promote the use of recycled textile content in new garments to help create a viable business model for the circular fashion industry.
Amid these challenges, the EU remains committed to sustainability under the Green Deal, viewing it as essential for the region’s economic competitiveness in a changing global landscape. The push for circular fashion and a responsible supply chain is seen as a critical part of the bloc’s future economic model, alongside broader environmental, social, and governance (ESG) efforts.
